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​The Flavor Brief​

A weekly letter about food, science, and why things taste the way they do

​Read Past Newsletters​

Hi Reader

May has a way of rushing past before you've had a chance to enjoy it, but this one left some wonderful things in its wake. I had my first Alphonso mango of the season (worth every bit of the wait), and then came news of a James Beard Award nomination for Flavor Forward. I'm still taking that one in. I know my family and friends in the UK and India have probably been enjoying mangoes for a while now, but if you're in Los Angeles, I get my Indian mangoes from Bhanu's Indian every summer. I highly recommend!

And speaking of Flavor Forward — there's a new episode out this week, and it might be my favorite one yet.

We're diving into umami, the fifth taste; that deep, savory quality that makes certain foods impossible to put down. I make the iconic miso soup from scratch and a braised short rib ragù; keep these in your back pocket for dinner parties. There are also a few surprise appearances from some of my friends over at America's Test Kitchen that I think you'll really enjoy.

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Last month I shared my favorite cookbooks of the year so far, and I've been thinking about what's stood out. There's been a wonderful wave of dessert books this year, genuinely stellar ones, but also a growing number that weave travel and food together in really compelling ways. I have a feeling the months ahead are going to bring even more interesting books to cook from and get lost in. I'll keep you looped in.

I also had two meals in Los Angeles this month that I'm still thinking about.The first was at the new Armenian restaurant, Yerord Mas in Glendale, which everyone has been raving about and for good reason. It's tiny and unassuming, with a small menu, no reservations, and no takeout. None of that matters once you're eating. The pita is tender and pillowy, the sandwiches are generous and meaty, and the Wagyu and pork are both cooked to the kind of tender perfection that makes you slow down and pay attention. I started with the muhammara and the fattoush, both so good I couldn't stop, and by the time my sandwich arrived I had no room left. No regrets whatsoever.

The second was at Chengdu Taste in Alhambra, which delivered exactly what I needed: tingly, fiery, sinus-clearing Sichuan food that satisfied every craving I didn't know I had. The eggplant, the green beans, the cumin lamb skewers, the fried rice- all of it was wonderful. There were other dishes whose names have since escaped me, but the flavors haven't.

I hope June will be equally fun and delicious!

The Flour Files: Bread vs. All-Purpose Flour

Flour is one of the most misunderstood ingredients in the kitchen. Most advice stops at protein percentage. I go further in a new comprehensive guide on Bread vs. All Purpose Flour, available for free to my premium subscribers.

Not a premium subscriber yet and want this guide? No problem! You can grab it a la carte as well.​​

$11.99 The Flour Files: Bread Flour vs. All-Purpose Flour Flour is one of the most misunderstood ingredients in the kitchen. Most advice stops at protein percentage. This goes... Read more Get it now!

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THE RECIPE

Pineapple Ginger Ras El Hanout Cake

Ras el hanout is one of the most treasured spice blends in my pantry. Associated with the cuisines of the Maghreb—particularly Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia—it can contain dozens of spices, with recipes varying from one maker to the next. A few years ago, while on my book tour, a chef brought me a bottle of Villa Jerada's Ras El Hanout and I feel in love with its gentle sweet warm scent, that it became a staple in my kitchen. While it is perhaps best known for savory dishes, its warm, aromatic notes are equally at home in desserts, where they pair beautifully with fruits such as pineapple, pear, and apple.

This cake leans into that idea fully. It's loaded with sweetened crystallized pineapple and ginger, and the ras el hanout runs through every slice — once baked into the crumb, once caramelized into the top crust. Serve it with coffee or tea, and it's hard to stop at one piece. Monthly exclusive for premium subscribers.

Cooking anything good this week? Find me at @abrowntable. I want to see it.

Nik