The Flavor Brief: What Makes a Dish "American"?


The Flavor Brief

A weekly letter about food, science, and why things taste the way they do

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Hello Reader

I’ve been looking for more cooking shows on American television that teach Indian cooking, and while I did a deep dig, there were really no shows except for one on PBS called Healthful Indian Flavors with Alamelu. There are scores of Indian cooking shows on streaming outlets like YouTube, and even Maneet’s Eats on the Food Network was originally launched as a digital series before it was distributed to TV. The lack of Indian cooking shows on American television surprised me. When I asked people online for recommendations, most were stumped like me and named the same shows I just listed. But one response threw me off.

Someone wrote that the lack of Indian cooking shows on American television was intentional because Indian food falls outside the zone of familiarity. It wasn’t relatable to people, they said, because there was no historical and geographical relationship between the two countries. They also felt Indian cooking was difficult, the flavors too complex to be relatable and not easily adaptable to everyday cooking. There wasn’t really a place for it in American households. I have to admit these comments dug deep; they irked me a little, especially because they kept saying “we in America.” But beyond my personal issues with those statements, it drove at a deeper question that many food writers have wrestled with for a long time: what is American cooking? Does the food of an immigrant belong there?

Let’s take this sweet corn risotto I cooked up for America's Test Kitchen this month. On the surface, it might look like a creamy, comforting risotto perfect for summer, but several experiences shaped how I prepare it and layer the flavors at each stage.

One of my favorite summer treats from growing up in India is fire-roasted sweet corn lathered with lime, dipped in red chili-salt, rubbed all over, so every bite was tangy, salty, and spicy, only mellowed by the sweet milky corn kernels that burst through. That smoky edge of charred sweet corn was one of the first flavors I wanted to layer into this Italian risotto. Then came the contrast of fresh herby chutney. The chutney is built from fresh cilantro, mint, green chilies, cumin, and other flavors, and it’s added right before serving with a dash of Parmesan. The latter is an ingredient that’s paired with Italian dishes like risotto but rarely with this Indian chutney. To me, there’s a bit of the Italian-American risottos that I’ve learned about and fallen in love with since moving here, and there’s the charred corn and green chutney, the part of me that I incorporate into this meal. Is it American? Or American enough? I think so.

Now for some exciting book news!

I'm going on tour again, and this time it's bigger. America, the U.K., and for the first time, Australia. I still can't quite believe I'm typing that last part. More dates are coming soon, and I'll share them the second they're locked in.

First up: London.

I'll be at the iconic Fortnum & Mason with one of my favorite people in food, Gurdeep Loyal. If you've read his writing, you know this conversation is going to be a good one. Seats are limited, so get your tickets soon.

I've also just added a second London event — I'll be at Honey and Co, one of my favorite places to eat in the city. There'll be food from the book and I'll be conversing with Itamar Surlovich.

And if you can't make it to these events, I'll also be signing copies at West End Lane Books — a small way to hold a piece of this in your hands even if you can't be in the room.

xx

Nik

Pre-order The Fundamentals of Flavor to get an exclusive deal from America's Test Kitchen

Pre-order Fundamentals of Flavor by September 21, 2026 at 11:59pm EST and enjoy three months of complimentary access to America’s Test Kitchen’s digital Essential Membership, plus 37% off one full year of Essential Membership. (If you've already ordered, you can still get this! Just click below).

On screen this week

In The Test Kitchen - Ice Cream

This week we're talking about my favorite food group, ice creams. (And all my aspirations to own an ice cream shop.)

THE RECIPE

Roasted Corn Risotto with Mint Chutney

This summery Indian-inspired Italian American risotto is full of bright flavors and sweet corn.

This recipe is hosted at ATK

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The Flavor Files

Food tastes better when you understand why it works. Science-backed recipes, flavor principles, and kitchen insights — every week. I host Flavor Forward on America's Test Kitchen and In The Test Kitchen on Netflix.

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