Hello Reader
The last few weeks have been busy. I’ve not been home much, and I long for the comfort of my pillow and being sandwiched between my dog and cat, despite their inability to share the bed with me. I’ve jumped between Southern and Northern California a few times and flown across the Atlantic to London.
Let’s start with London, where signs of Christmas are popping up everywhere. My friends in America feel it’s too early because we have Halloween and Thanksgiving to wade our way through. And based on my Instagram feed, I’m already seeing preparations for Diwali underway (this year, the holiday falls on November 8). October unleashes a fury of holiday traditions and celebrations for those of us lucky enough to partake, carrying us straight into the new year.
Like any good traveler, I picked up a few tins of shortbread from Fortnum & Mason just minutes before my book talk. Christmas trees and decorations were already up, but I suspect this isn’t it yet, and by the end of November, London will be brighter with even more holiday lights and decor. It makes me feel a little whimsical and a little special because it quickly takes me back to the excitement I felt as a child during the holiday season.
But there were other things outside the holiday season that were exciting. I fell in love with the food at two marvelous restaurants.
On our first night in London, M and I went to Rambutan in Borough Market, and fortunately, it was the evening of their very special Jaffna Crab Feast. We sat at the counter, right in front of the kitchen, where the chefs deftly maneuvered their woks and pots over hot, live charcoal, roasting mushrooms, grilling prawns, and steaming crabs. It was my most unforgettable meal of the trip, and if you get the chance to eat there, go without hesitation.
My second most memorable meal was at Bistro Sablé in Islington with my friend and author, Diana Henry. It quickly transported me back to the cafés of Paris, where the tables are covered with nappes en papier blanc (white paper tablecloths), stacks of wine bottles line the shelves, and colorful art is displayed on the walls around the entire restaurant. The duck confit with beans and crème caramel were my choices for that evening, and both were entirely splendid. It’s a lovely spot for a romantic dinner, but also a fun spot to eat with close friends and family.
Now, most of you know how much I loathe bananas, so you will be as astonished as I was to find myself devouring the banana cake at the Jikoni pop-up at the Frieze art fair. The cake tasted more like a sticky toffee pudding topped with creamy, velvety Ovaltine ice cream, and the scent and texture of banana that typically scares me off had somehow morphed into a caramelized spoonful of joy.
London was busy with book stuff, but it always brings a smile to my face because I got to meet so many of you.
Back from London, I quickly went back to school in LA. Yes, I did!
I was invited by the Institute of Culinary Education and Wagyu Sommelier, along with a few chefs from around the country, to participate in an intensive immersion program in wagyu. Over the next couple of days, I learned about wagyu and passed my Level 1 test. I am now an official wagyu sommelier! And then after that, I went back to San Francisco to wrap up my final two book events in North America for the year. Next stop, Australia. A few more additional seats have been introduced for the dinner due to popular demand and the two other talks [Get Your Tickets Here].
This week, I am in Boston filming the second season of In the Test Kitchen, for which we just won a silver medal at the Signal Awards. Thank you for voting for us. I appreciate you and all your love. This show has meant so much to me, and it’s a joy to hear that you love watching it.
Halloween is around the corner, the first door that opens into the long stretch of holidays. As someone who enjoys the horror, science fiction, and fantasy genres, I do partake in it despite the fact that I no longer don a costume. I devote the entire week to watching some of my classic favorites like The Omen, Poltergeist, Aliens, and so on.
Now, regardless of whether you’re planning a party or just sitting by the TV getting spooked by your favorite movie, here are a few things to prepare and eat.
A flavor that starts to pop up around this time of year, and one I certainly encountered in London in Jikoni’s banana cake, is caramelization. From the deep amber notes of caramel to the bittersweet flavors of burnt sugar, it’s one of my favorite ways to build flavor in the kitchen.
But what exactly happens when sugar caramelizes, and how can we use that knowledge to make better food? I've written a new piece exploring the science of caramelization and how to put it to work in your cooking.
Want to go deeper? There’s more for Flavor Files+ members.
The free guide shows you how to make caramel. For members, I’ve put together The Caramel Deep Dive, a downloadable guide for the questions that come up once you’re at the stove:
- Does acid really make sugar caramelize faster? It’s one of the most common kitchen myths, and the real answer is more interesting.
- Cream of tartar, lemon juice or corn syrup? What each one does to your sugar, and why I reach for cream of tartar.
- What happens when cream, butter, salt or spices hit hot caramel? Why it bubbles so furiously, why it sometimes seizes into lumps, and when to add aromatics so their scent survives.
- A full troubleshooting guide. Caramel that hardens, separates, turns bitter, browns unevenly, or ends up too thick or too thin, and how to fix each one.
If you’ve ever thrown out caramel without knowing exacltly what went wrong, this is for you!
(Once you join, I'll email you The Caramel Deep Dive right away)
One Last Small Favor
If you have Fundamentals of Flavor and are enjoying it, would you leave a review? It doesn't need to be long—tell people what you cooked, what you learned, what surprised you, or simply what you thought of the book.
Thank you for getting Fundamentals of Flavor here. Now let's help it find its way to even more cooks.
xx
Nik
